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Fitting and Pattern Alteration: A Multi-Method Approach to the Art of Style Selection, Fitting, and Alteration (2nd Edition), by Elizabeth
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This textbook teaches students how to recognize, evaluate, and correct fit for over 100
figure variations. The book utilizes a multi-method approach that is both logical and easyto-
follow, and each procedure is clearly identified and fully-illustrated. The second edition
will include new information concerning figure evaluation, methods for working with
multi-sized patterns, and instructions for correcting garments that have more than
one fit problem.
- Sales Rank: #698014 in Books
- Brand: imusti
- Published on: 2009-08-03
- Released on: 2009-07-31
- Original language: English
- Number of items: 1
- Dimensions: 12.00" h x 28.57" w x 9.02" l, 3.35 pounds
- Binding: Paperback
- 496 pages
- Fairchild Books Visuals
Review
No other book addresses the topic as clearly and as concise as this one . . . I would consider it a 'Bible' on the subject. It is packed with information, challenges and solutions.
The books strength is that is offers a more objective way of assessing fit by giving guidance on what good fit should be something which is not explicit within the clothing industry. It also acknowledges that ideas of good fit can change given a particular season. The book enables students to approach fit is a logical and systematic way and provides solutions which they understand easily and have the skill set to undertake.
This is a comprehensive compendium of fitting and pattern alteration information. This text is appropriate for the intermediate student and as a resource, is very accessible and intuitive to use.
About the Author
Elizabeth Liechty is a Professor Emerita at Brigham Young University in Utah. She has taught classes to adult and student learners in the clothing, fitting, and tailoring fields.
Judith Rasband, ITAA, is the founder and CEO of Conselle L.C. and Executive Director of the Conselle Institute of Image Management, an organization involved in the creation of education materials on appearance-related topics. She combines 30 years of experience in fashion education and business. A veteran educator, she has taught secondary-level, community college, and university courses in clothing selection and construction.
Della Pottberg-Steineckert is a Teaching Professor Emerita at Brigham Young University. She pursued a teaching career as a secondary educator of home economics and adult education plus university-level clothing construction, patternmaking, draping and fitting. She taught at the Florida State University while earning a doctoral degree. During her 29 years of teaching at Brigham Young University she originated and developed the "seam method" of pattern alteration and was awarded the distinction of "Outstanding Teacher" and being selected as the Virginia Cutler Lecturer . She also developed and directed the Intermountain Sewing and Needlework Conference.
Most helpful customer reviews
79 of 82 people found the following review helpful.
The Most Comprehensive Resource
By NuJoi
I waited a long time for this book. I viewed it as the answer to my many alteration woes. I purchased several other books until I got my hands on this one.
All in all, I'm pleased with it. It's not perfect, but it is the most complete resource I've found. It's pricey, but I think it's worth it. Others have suggested buying an older edition. The nerd in me won't allow that :-)
The book is organized into three sections. Things don't get good until Part Two. This is where the book goes into body types, ways to fit and a discussion of the various ways to alter a pattern.
Part Three is what you pay for -- figure variations and how to alter patterns for them. This covers 88 figure variations. For each, you are shown how to do the alteration via the seam method, pivot/slide method and slash method. I love that the book provided all three methods for each variation! I'm a little sad because it doesn't give info on how to adjust wrap skirts or tops.
Let me back up and give you the full picture: for each variation, the book explains what the issue is (figure evaluation); the problems it causes (fitting problems); how to alter for the problem in RTW and the muslin; gives body measurement positions and pattern measurement comparison. Then it gives you the correction for flat pattern alteration using three methods. This book is fantastic.
It's fantastic, but not perfect. While you get more detailed instructions regarding using the three methods to alter a basic pattern piece (like a darted bodice), the book gives you smaller reference pictures showing how the seam method would be used on other styles, like an empire-waist bodice. These are pictures only. I wish there were written isntructions too. My other criticism is that the for most of the alterations, it does not tell you the maximum adjustment amount you can make using any of the methods.
I hate the circa 80s apparel drawings. These are a direct lift from the first edition of Fabulous Fit. What irks me to no end is the use of "ideal" when referring to a figure variation. "There is more weight deposit an/or muscle development than average/ideal." How dare you. Make the comparison to "conventional standards" or something, but please don't say "ideal." It's absolutely offensive.
Now that I have this book, the Palmer/Pletsch books (Fit for Real People: Sew Great Clothes Using ANY Pattern (Sewing for Real People series) and Pants for Real People: Fit and Sew for Any Body (Sewing for Real People series)) and Pattern Fitting With Confidence(pivot and slide method), I'm glad I have them all. This book covers more figure variations, but you get more detailed alteration information in the other books. They all work well together. Now what you don't need is Fabulous Fit: Speed Fitting and Alteration (2nd Edition), all of its info is contained this book (at least the first edition; I haven't seen the second). This is a textbook, so I imagine students are getting hands-on practice with each alteration, so they don't need the additional detail in the other books.
So the question is can this be your only fit and alterations book? The answer isn't a simple yes or no. If you are familiar with the three fitting methods and are looking for a single resource for all three, then the answer is yes. Now for beginners, it really depends. I needed the other books for the detail; I just couldn't grasp how to do some of the alterations. This book is a must-have for me; you may not need the level of detail I did.
28 of 29 people found the following review helpful.
Great book, disappointing table of contents
By B. R. Snyder
I have the first edition of this book, and it is *indispensable* in terms of diagnosing and solving fit problems. They diagnose some fitting problems I haven't ever seen mentioned in any other fitting book. I learned that my pants all hang oddly and bind when I walk because I have inward-rotating knees, for example.
However, I am returning this one, even though I am giving it 5 stars. I already have several books on wardrobe styling, selecting flattering styles, etc. so the first 200 pages of this book aren't that helpful for me. Also, I prefer the pattern alteration details in the first edition, although if I had never seen the first edition, I'm sure I would love the descriptions in this one. For the price, it doesn't have enough new information for me. If it cost $30, I would definitely keep it, and when I'm more flush, I could see buying it to have as an all-in-one reference text.
My main dissatisfaction with this edition is the TOC. The heart of these books is the detailed and well-organized list of possible fit problems. In the first book, these are numbered from 1 to 85 or something, and the number (and page number) appears in the TOC and also at the start of each associated section of the book (bodice, sleeve, etc.). The new edition doesn't have these listed anywhere! They are in part 3 of the book, and the TOC for that part essentially says:
Bodices, page 163
Sleeves, page 315
Skirts and pants, 352
And the individual sections don't have the alterations listed out either! So the only way to find them is to flip through the book, or know what you are looking for and find it in the index. The first 160 pages of the book are listed in fairly good detail in the TOC, and it seems a poor decision not to do the same for the alterations list.
45 of 45 people found the following review helpful.
Can't live without this book!
By M. Cunningham
I have the previous edition of this book and it was always my go to book, but the new additions are priceless. The information on what order to do your measuring plus the order to do your alterations is something no seamstress should be without. The improvements on where to hinge with little scissors and big scissors in color is so helpful. If you have ever struggled with altering your pattern only to create a distortion or change something that didn't need changing, this book is for you. I had mine spiral bound so it can lay open flat on my cutting table.
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